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Cultural Preservation

Shawls of Zura: Textile Craft Revival

Goals

Enhance livelihoods, preserve heritage, and introduce innovations in craft and business

Location

Zura village, Kutch district, Gujarat, India

Focus

Traditional Kutch shawl weaving, artisan ecosystem, and sustainable development

Role

UX Researcher & Designer

Project Domain

Cultural Preservation

Goals

Enhance livelihoods, preserve heritage, and introduce innovations in craft and business

Location

Zura village, Kutch district, Gujarat, India

Focus

Traditional Kutch shawl weaving, artisan ecosystem, and sustainable development

Role

UX Researcher & Designer

Project Domain

Cultural Preservation

This project explores the traditional Kutch shawl weaving practices of Zura village, focusing on the interconnected artisan communities and their craft ecosystem. Through research, documentation, and targeted interventions, it aims to preserve cultural heritage while enhancing artisan livelihoods and introducing sustainable innovation.

The initiative combines process mapping, stakeholder engagement, and design-led solutions to address challenges like market access, income disparity, and resource sustainability. By empowering local weavers and integrating modern business practices, the project seeks to create a resilient and thriving craft community.

The 'Challenge'

Local artisans face declining incomes and market competition from mechanised shawl production, compounded by limited direct sales channels and gaps in sustainable practices, threatening the continuity of Zura’s weaving heritage.

Project 'Brief'

Documents and revitalizes Kutch shawl weaving in Zura village, combining traditional craft research with sustainable, market-driven interventions to empower artisans and preserve their cultural heritage.

Design 'Process'

Adopting a structured 6-pillar approach for in-depth understanding

6-pillar approach Process

Contextual

Inquiry

Studied geography

History

Artisan challenges

Ecosystem Mapping

Artisan groups

Partners

Supply chains

Process Documentation

Logged weaving steps

Spaces

Incomes

SDG Audit

Eco-materials

SDGs

Schemes

Intervention Design

Created new products

Skills

Sustainable solutions

Evaluation

Tracked KPIs

Feedback

Progress reviews

Contextual

Inquiry

Studied geography

History

Artisan challenges

Ecosystem Mapping

Artisan groups

Partners

Supply chains

Contextual

Inquiry

Studied geography

History

Artisan challenges

Process Documentation

Logged weaving steps

Spaces

Incomes

Contextual

Inquiry

Studied geography

History

Artisan challenges

SDG Audit

Eco-materials

SDGs

Schemes

Contextual

Inquiry

Studied geography

History

Artisan challenges

Intervention Design

Created new products

Skills

Sustainable solutions

Contextual

Inquiry

Studied geography

History

Artisan challenges

Evaluation

Tracked KPIs

Feedback

Progress reviews

Household 'Mapping'

Applying the framework, the team worked with three households:

Khanji Buchiya
(4th-gen Odhana weaver)

Moved 35 % of monthly sales to direct online channels after colour-palette refresh.

Lalji Marwada
(1st-gen weaver)

Adopted natural-dye borders, reducing chemical input costs by 12 % and winning a city-boutique order of ₹42 k.

Babu Vankar
(new entrant)

Trained on warping-frame ergonomics; warp wastage fell from 8 % to 3 %.

Key 'Problems'

Design and business interventions for craft revival.

Market Competition

Powerloom shawls from Ludhiana threaten the uniqueness and market of Kutch handwoven shawls.

Market Competition

Powerloom shawls from Ludhiana threaten the uniqueness and market of Kutch handwoven shawls.

Market Competition

Powerloom shawls from Ludhiana threaten the uniqueness and market of Kutch handwoven shawls.

Income Inequality

Not all artisans have entrepreneurial agency; many work under master weavers.

Income Inequality

Not all artisans have entrepreneurial agency; many work under master weavers.

Income Inequality

Not all artisans have entrepreneurial agency; many work under master weavers.

Resource Use

Limited use of locally sourced and sustainable materials.

Resource Use

Limited use of locally sourced and sustainable materials.

Resource Use

Limited use of locally sourced and sustainable materials.

Gender Disparities

Women primarily handle finishing, with less visibility in business roles.

Gender Disparities

Women primarily handle finishing, with less visibility in business roles.

Gender Disparities

Women primarily handle finishing, with less visibility in business roles.

Sustainability Gaps

Limited awareness and implementation of eco-friendly practices.

Sustainability Gaps

Limited awareness and implementation of eco-friendly practices.

Sustainability Gaps

Limited awareness and implementation of eco-friendly practices.

Weaving 'Workflow'

Understanding the craft, the community, and the market.

Acrylic, merino wool, kala cotton, and organic cotton.

Material Sourcing

Acrylic, merino wool, kala cotton, and organic cotton.

Material Sourcing

Acrylic, merino wool, kala cotton, and organic cotton.

Material Sourcing

Yarn spun by women or sourced from local markets.

Spinning

Yarn spun by women or sourced from local markets.

Spinning

Yarn spun by women or sourced from local markets.

Spinning

Yarn arranged on frames (adda/addan); process takes 2 days per warp.

Warping

Yarn arranged on frames (adda/addan); process takes 2 days per warp.

Warping

Yarn arranged on frames (adda/addan); process takes 2 days per warp.

Warping

Warp threads soaked in a wheat/rice flour solution for strength.

Starching

Warp threads soaked in a wheat/rice flour solution for strength.

Starching

Warp threads soaked in a wheat/rice flour solution for strength.

Starching

Threads passed through heald eyes and reeds.

Drafting & Denting

Threads passed through heald eyes and reeds.

Drafting & Denting

Threads passed through heald eyes and reeds.

Drafting & Denting

Artisans use frame looms and extra weft insertion (Hath Chundi) to create motifs.

Weaving

Artisans use frame looms and extra weft insertion (Hath Chundi) to create motifs.

Weaving

Artisans use frame looms and extra weft insertion (Hath Chundi) to create motifs.

Weaving

Shawls undergo mirror work, embroidery, tassel attachment, washing, and ironing.

Finishing

Shawls undergo mirror work, embroidery, tassel attachment, washing, and ironing.

Finishing

Shawls undergo mirror work, embroidery, tassel attachment, washing, and ironing.

Finishing

Starching

Lal ji bhai performing the process

Starching

Process in progress

Starching

Process in progress

Starching

Process in progress

Starching

Threads kept for dry under sunlight

Starching

Threads kept for dry under sunlight

Starching

Threads kept for dry under sunlight

Artisans

Sinior Artisans in the village

Artisans

Sinior Artisans in the village

Artisans

Sinior Artisans in the village

Key 'Insights'

Learnings from field implementation

Digital Power

Digital skills empower artisans and increase resilience

Digital Power

Digital skills empower artisans and increase resilience

Digital Power

Digital skills empower artisans and increase resilience

Holistic Approach

Holistic design + ecosystem interventions yield lasting impact

Holistic Approach

Holistic design + ecosystem interventions yield lasting impact

Holistic Approach

Holistic design + ecosystem interventions yield lasting impact

Market Edge

Sustainability and natural dyes create strong market differentiation

Market Edge

Sustainability and natural dyes create strong market differentiation

Market Edge

Sustainability and natural dyes create strong market differentiation

Research 'Interventions'

Cultural preservation and economic empowerment.

Product Development

Seasonal Colour Guides

Developed youth-oriented palettes (neon, pastels) and mature palettes (neutrals, jewel tones).

Seasonal Colour Guides

Developed youth-oriented palettes (neon, pastels) and mature palettes (neutrals, jewel tones).

Seasonal Colour Guides

Developed youth-oriented palettes (neon, pastels) and mature palettes (neutrals, jewel tones).

New Product Lines

Designed lighter stoles, narrower scarves, and experimented with ombré and color-blocking techniques.

New Product Lines

Designed lighter stoles, narrower scarves, and experimented with ombré and color-blocking techniques.

New Product Lines

Designed lighter stoles, narrower scarves, and experimented with ombré and color-blocking techniques.

Natural Dyeing

Introduced coconut husk, indigo, manjistha, and ratanjyot for dyeing, reducing chemical use and enhancing market appeal.

Natural Dyeing

Introduced coconut husk, indigo, manjistha, and ratanjyot for dyeing, reducing chemical use and enhancing market appeal.

Natural Dyeing

Introduced coconut husk, indigo, manjistha, and ratanjyot for dyeing, reducing chemical use and enhancing market appeal.

Business & Digital Enablement

Online Sales

Trained artisans to use Facebook, WhatsApp, and platforms like “Panjo Charkho” for direct sales.

Online Sales

Trained artisans to use Facebook, WhatsApp, and platforms like “Panjo Charkho” for direct sales.

Online Sales

Trained artisans to use Facebook, WhatsApp, and platforms like “Panjo Charkho” for direct sales.

Branding Workshops

Helped artisans develop storytelling and product photography skills.

Branding Workshops

Helped artisans develop storytelling and product photography skills.

Branding Workshops

Helped artisans develop storytelling and product photography skills.

Ecosystem Engagement

Stakeholder Collaboration

Partnered with KWA, Akshay Patra Foundation, and local NGOs for distribution and capacity building.

Stakeholder Collaboration

Partnered with KWA, Akshay Patra Foundation, and local NGOs for distribution and capacity building.

Stakeholder Collaboration

Partnered with KWA, Akshay Patra Foundation, and local NGOs for distribution and capacity building.

SDG Integration

Established a monitoring system to track progress on income, gender parity, and sustainability.

SDG Integration

Established a monitoring system to track progress on income, gender parity, and sustainability.

SDG Integration

Established a monitoring system to track progress on income, gender parity, and sustainability.

Key 'Outcomes'

Measurable impact on sales, costs, and resource use

Direct Sales Growth

35% of sales moved online for Khanji Buchiya

Direct Sales Growth

35% of sales moved online for Khanji Buchiya

Direct Sales Growth

35% of sales moved online for Khanji Buchiya

Cost Reduction:

12% decrease in chemical costs and new boutique orders for Lalji Marwada

Cost Reduction:

12% decrease in chemical costs and new boutique orders for Lalji Marwada

Cost Reduction:

12% decrease in chemical costs and new boutique orders for Lalji Marwada

Resource Efficiency

Material wastage reduced from 8% to 3% for Babu Vankar

Resource Efficiency

Material wastage reduced from 8% to 3% for Babu Vankar

Resource Efficiency

Material wastage reduced from 8% to 3% for Babu Vankar

Empowerment

Increased artisan control over branding and pricing

Empowerment

Increased artisan control over branding and pricing

Empowerment

Increased artisan control over branding and pricing

Next 'Steps'

Steps for long-term growth

Design Cell

Establish a Village Design Cell for ongoing development and SDG tracking

Design Cell

Establish a Village Design Cell for ongoing development and SDG tracking

Design Cell

Establish a Village Design Cell for ongoing development and SDG tracking

Digital Studio

Create a Shared Digital Studio for marketing and inventory

Digital Studio

Create a Shared Digital Studio for marketing and inventory

Digital Studio

Create a Shared Digital Studio for marketing and inventory

Micro-Grants

Launch a Micro-Grant Program for sustainability and inclusion

Micro-Grants

Launch a Micro-Grant Program for sustainability and inclusion

Micro-Grants

Launch a Micro-Grant Program for sustainability and inclusion

Key 'Learnings'

The power of participatory design and continuous adaptation.

Holistic Interventions

Design innovation must be coupled with ecosystem support—market access, digital literacy, and social inclusion.

Holistic Interventions

Design innovation must be coupled with ecosystem support—market access, digital literacy, and social inclusion.

Holistic Interventions

Design innovation must be coupled with ecosystem support—market access, digital literacy, and social inclusion.

Sustainability as Differentiator

Natural dyes and responsible practices unlock premium markets.

Sustainability as Differentiator

Natural dyes and responsible practices unlock premium markets.

Sustainability as Differentiator

Natural dyes and responsible practices unlock premium markets.

Empowering Artisans

Direct-to-customer models and digital skills increase incomes and resilience.

Empowering Artisans

Direct-to-customer models and digital skills increase incomes and resilience.

Empowering Artisans

Direct-to-customer models and digital skills increase incomes and resilience.

Conclusion

Heritage and innovation can co-exist

Participatory, research-driven strategies can revitalise traditional crafts. Zura’s shawl weaving ecosystem stands as a model for integrating heritage, innovation, and social impact in rural development.

Shawls of Zura: Textile Craft Revival

Goals

Enhance livelihoods, preserve heritage, and introduce innovations in craft and business

Location

Zura village, Kutch district, Gujarat, India

Focus

Traditional Kutch shawl weaving, artisan ecosystem, and sustainable development

Role

UX Researcher & Designer

Project Domain

Cultural Preservation

Goals

Enhance livelihoods, preserve heritage, and introduce innovations in craft and business

Location

Zura village, Kutch district, Gujarat, India

Focus

Traditional Kutch shawl weaving, artisan ecosystem, and sustainable development

Role

UX Researcher & Designer

Project Domain

Cultural Preservation

The 'Challenge'

Local artisans face declining incomes and market competition from mechanised shawl production, compounded by limited direct sales channels and gaps in sustainable practices, threatening the continuity of Zura’s weaving heritage.

Project 'Brief'

Documents and revitalizes Kutch shawl weaving in Zura village, combining traditional craft research with sustainable, market-driven interventions to empower artisans and preserve their cultural heritage.

Design 'Process'

Adopting a structured 6-pillar approach for in-depth understanding

6-pillar approach Process

Household 'Mapping'

Applying the framework, the team worked with three households:

Khanji Buchiya (4th-gen Odhana weaver)

Moved 35 % of monthly sales to direct online channels after colour-palette refresh.

Lalji Marwada (1st-gen weaver)

Adopted natural-dye borders, reducing chemical input costs by 12 % and winning a city-boutique order of ₹42 k.

Babu Vankar (new entrant)

Trained on warping-frame ergonomics; warp wastage fell from 8 % to 3 %.

Key 'Problems'

Design and business interventions for craft revival.

Market Competition

Powerloom shawls from Ludhiana threaten the uniqueness and market of Kutch handwoven shawls.

Market Competition

Powerloom shawls from Ludhiana threaten the uniqueness and market of Kutch handwoven shawls.

Market Competition

Powerloom shawls from Ludhiana threaten the uniqueness and market of Kutch handwoven shawls.

Income Inequality

Not all artisans have entrepreneurial agency; many work under master weavers.

Income Inequality

Not all artisans have entrepreneurial agency; many work under master weavers.

Income Inequality

Not all artisans have entrepreneurial agency; many work under master weavers.

Resource Use

Limited use of locally sourced and sustainable materials.

Resource Use

Limited use of locally sourced and sustainable materials.

Resource Use

Limited use of locally sourced and sustainable materials.

Gender Disparities

Women primarily handle finishing, with less visibility in business roles.

Gender Disparities

Women primarily handle finishing, with less visibility in business roles.

Gender Disparities

Women primarily handle finishing, with less visibility in business roles.

Sustainability Gaps

Limited awareness and implementation of eco-friendly practices.

Sustainability Gaps

Limited awareness and implementation of eco-friendly practices.

Sustainability Gaps

Limited awareness and implementation of eco-friendly practices.

Weaving 'Workflow'

Understanding the craft, the community, and the market.

Acrylic, merino wool, kala cotton, and organic cotton.

Material Sourcing

Acrylic, merino wool, kala cotton, and organic cotton.

Material Sourcing

Acrylic, merino wool, kala cotton, and organic cotton.

Material Sourcing

Yarn spun by women or sourced from local markets.

Spinning

Yarn spun by women or sourced from local markets.

Spinning

Khanji Buchiya
(4th-gen Odhana weaver)

Lalji Marwada
(1st-gen weaver)

Babu Vankar
(new entrant)